china research- the different kinds of suits

 

Zhongshan suit

Zhongshan suit became popular with western suit for its conciseness and utility in the 1911 Revolution. The government of Republic of China issued a public order that the Zhongshan suit was the formal dress. Minor stylistic changes of the Zhongshan suit would be developed, and a revolutionary and patriotic significance will be assigned to it. Four pockets, five centre-front buttons, three cuff-buttons, all of these own their meanings from a Chinese ancient classic I Ching.

The four pockets represent the Four Virtues: Propriety, Rightness, Integrity, and Shame, which cite in the Chinese classic Guanzi.
The five centre-front buttons represent that the separation of five powers cited in the constitution of the Republic of China–legislation, supervision, examination, administration and jurisdiction.
The three cuff-buttons symbolize Sun Yat-sen's Three Principles of the People: Nationalism, Democracy, and People's Livelihood.
A single piece symbolizes China's unity and peace.

The Chinese tunic suit, also known as Zhongshan suit, is a Chinese traditional style of male attire named after Sun Zhongshan (also Romanized as Sun Yat-Sen). Many Chinese leaders like to wear this suit, like Chiang Kai-shek, Mao Tse-tung, Chou En-Lai, Deng Xiaoping, etc... Because Chinese famous politician Mao Tse-tung always wore the Zhongshan suit in public, many westerners also called it as Mao suit, but actually this name is not popular in China. Zhongshan suit and suits which derive from Zhongshan suit became the main style before Reform and Openness of China. Chinese leaders and North Korea leaders still like to wear Zhongshan suit during important state ceremonies and functions.

https://www.topchinatravel.com/china-guide/traditional-chinese-clothing/

Mao suit

Also known as the Chinese Tunic or Zhongshan suit, but referred to here as the Mao Suit, Chinese leader Mao Zedong (pictured below) popularized this suit style by making public appearances in the Mao during his term between 1949 – 1976. Western European Socialists and intellectuals picked up the style in the 1960s and 70s, often wearing the Mao over a turtleneck.

Worn to attend formal occasions by paramount Chinese leader Hu Jintao (above left) up until 2012, the Mao has dwindled as formal attire in favor of Western-style suits, but the style is still adopted for military uniforms and formal occasions in various countries and is used today as inspiration for more distinct and daring suit designs.

 

Boxy cut, the short collar, four patch pockets (with the signature pointed flap design on chest pockets),  and the absence of lapels. The jacket has only one layer of fabric, versus the Western-style two layer coat. Three cuff buttons are standard for the jacket.

No shirt or tie is necessary with this suit style, although a white shirt can be worn beneath the coat with the shirt collar peeking out around the neckline .

The strongest characteristic of the Mao is the short and rigid fold-over collar, with rounded points extended no further than the base of the band.

 

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2014/05/30/the-mao-suit-and-the-nehru-jacket/

Despite its modern-day name, the roots of the Mao suit can be traced back to Sun Yat-sen and the Nationalist government. In an attempt to find a style of clothing that suited modern sensibilities without completely adopting western styles, Sun Yat-sen developed a suit that combined aspects of military uniforms, student uniforms, and western-style suits. In the late 1920s civil servants of the Nationalist government were required by regulation to wear the Sun Yat-sen suit which would later be called the Mao suit.

The collars, pockets, and seams of the Mao suits these men are wearing are all the same, but the suits are still not identical. 

Political leaders were not the only ones to wear Mao suits. People of both genders, in all areas, and in all different kinds of professions began wearing variations of the Mao suit on a daily basis.

https://depts.washington.edu/chinaciv/clothing/11maosui.htm